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Sizing a Replacement Button

One Stop Button Shop — Sewing buttons as a | onestopbuttonshop.com

Measure the old button across its widest point, or measure the buttonhole and subtract 3 mm. A standard dress-shirt front button is 11-15 mm across; coat and blazer buttons run 25-40 mm. Sizes are sold in lignes — 1 ligne equals 0.635 mm — so one quick conversion tells you exactly what to ask for.

Start with thegarment, not theMeasure the buttonyou have — or theConvert lignes tomillimetres andReplace the button:a five-step proceduSew-on, shank ortack: match theTypical replacementfailures and their
A map of this guide's sections

01

Measure

Diameter across the widest point is the only number sizing needs. If the button is gone, measure the buttonhole and subtract 3 mm — a 15 mm hole was cut for a 12 mm button.

02

Match

Convert millimetres to lignes by dividing by 0.635, then check the garment band: 16L-18L for cuffs, 24L-32L for cardigans, 36L-60L for coats. Shirt fronts sit at 11-15 mm, coats at 25-40 mm.

03

Attach

Choose sew-through for shirting, a shank button or thread shank for thick cloth, and a tack button for denim. Cut any new buttonhole 3 mm longer than the diameter, and lock the thread with 3-5 winds and a knot.

Start with the garment, not the button jar

Each garment family has a settled size band, so naming the garment narrows the size before you measure anything.

Size bands map to garments in the trade: 16L-18L (10-11 mm) covers cuffs and children's wear, 24L-32L (15-20 mm) covers cardigans, and 36L-60L (23-38 mm) covers coats. A standard 4-hole dress-shirt front button is 11-15 mm across, which sits between the cuff and cardigan bands.

Coat and blazer buttons run 25-40 mm in diameter. That range overlaps the top of the coat band, so a blazer replacement usually lands around 40L-48L (about 25-30 mm), while a heavy overcoat can take up to 60L (38.1 mm).

Jeans and workwear jackets break the pattern: they use tack (nail) buttons with a cap of about 17-20 mm, clinched through the cloth rather than sewn.

Match the button to the garment

Shirting

Dress-shirt fronts

A standard 4-hole front button is 11-15 mm across, roughly 18L-24L. Buttons sit 75-90 mm apart on the placket, and most shirts carry 2 spares in the side seam.

Cuffs

Cuffs and children's wear

The smallest band, 16L-18L or 10-11 mm. Cuffs take 1-2 buttons each.

Knitwear

Cardigans

The middle band, 24L-32L or 15-20 mm. On thick knits, sew flat buttons with a thread shank of fabric thickness plus 1-2 mm.

Outerwear

Coats and blazers

The top band, 36L-60L or 23-38 mm; coat and blazer buttons run 25-40 mm in practice. Shank buttons, stocked 8-20 mm, keep the overlap flat over thick cloth.

Denim

Jeans and workwear

Tack (nail) buttons replace sewing entirely: a cap of about 17-20 mm is clinched through the cloth onto a stud.

Finish

Locking the stitch

Wind the thread around the shank 3-5 times, push the needle through to the back and knot. This lock is what keeps a replacement button on.

Cut a buttonhole 3 mm longer than the button diameter: a 12 mm button needs a 15 mm buttonhole.
A flat sew-on button needs a thread shank equal to the fabric thickness plus 1-2 mm, so the overlap lies flat.

Ligne-to-millimetre size chart

Ligne sizes converted to millimetres and inches, with the garment each band suits
Ligne sizeMillimetresInchesTypical use
16L10.2 mm0.40 inCuffs, children's wear
18L11.4 mm0.45 inCuffs, light shirt buttons
24L15.2 mm0.60 inCardigans, dresses
28L17.8 mm0.70 inCardigans
32L20.3 mm0.80 inCardigans, light jackets
36L22.9 mm0.90 inCoats
44L27.9 mm1.10 inCoats and blazers
60L38.1 mm1.50 inOvercoats
Ligne sizes converted to millimetres and inches, with the garment each band suits

Questions people actually ask

I lost the button completely. How do I find the size?
Measure the buttonhole and subtract 3 mm — that is the diameter the hole was cut for. Also check the side seam: most dress shirts carry 2 spare buttons there, and a spare matches both size and style.
The button is marked 18L. What does the L mean?
L stands for lignes, the button trade's size unit. One ligne equals 0.635 mm (1/40 inch), so 18L is 11.4 mm; multiply any ligne number by 0.635 to get millimetres.
Can I fit a bigger button without changing the buttonhole?
No. A buttonhole is cut only 3 mm longer than the button diameter, so even one size up will not pass without straining the cloth. Match the old diameter, or re-cut the hole to the new diameter plus 3 mm.
Do I need a shank button for a thick coat?
A shank helps wherever the cloth is thick. Shank buttons are stocked from 8 to 20 mm; if you use a flat sew-on button instead, leave a thread shank equal to the fabric thickness plus 1-2 mm so the overlap lies flat.

Sources and basis

The figures cited are trade-standard conventions for button sizing and attachment, restated in the sections above.

Start with thegarment, not theMeasure the buttonyou have — or theConvert lignes tomillimetres andReplace the button:a five-step proceduSew-on, shank ortack: match theTypical replacementfailures and their
A map of this guide's sections